Bratislava what a surprise.

I arrived in Bratislava yesterday morning expecting a dirty smaller version of Budapest or Prague but I have been surprised and impressed. Apart from the difficulty at navigating the public transport system, the city is pretty swish. It is obviously still getting it together after communism, and the divorce from the Czech Republic, but with its new status as an EU member it is on the up and up. The streets are clean and free of bums. The buildings and streets in the old town almost look new they have been so carefully looked after. In some ways the city looks like it has been constructed in the last few years for Disneyland tourists who can't be bothered going to Paris. But compared to Budapest or some areas of Prague, this is a good thing. There also seems to be a higher proportion of English speakers, although this is still pretty low, but at least they don't get pissed when you politely ask if they speak English.

Last night I stayed at a University which lets out its rooms in the holidays to unsuspecting foreign backpackers like yours truly. I knew I was in for a bit of trouble just from reading the reviews on hostelworld.com, things such as "Staff speak nothing other than slovakian" and "This place is the pits. Each dilapitated room comes with its own graffiti, old WW2 blankets for curtains and furniture falling apart at the seams. Do not be attracted by the price - you have been forewarned." But I love a challenge and figued it couldn't be too bad. And to be fair, it wasn't any worse than I'd been warned. I paid equivalent to 8 euros and I had my own room with an ensuite. But there were loads of bugs and the sheets were dirty. However, the main problem, which should never be underestimated while travelling, especially on your own, was that it was boring there and it was far out of the centre of town. Consequently, I woke reasonably early and left there and headed to a more expensive hostel in town. I didn't have a reservation but figued at the least I could leave my bag there and ask them where there was a laundry because my clothes are all very smelly and dirty (including what I am wearing today). After navigating the painful tram system, I found the hostel and they were pretty helpful there. They didn't have room but told me to drop in at 6pm and see them, in the meantime they put my washing on for more, for about 5 euros, and I headed into the city releived. So soon I will find out whether I have accom for tonight, but I have a feeling it will be okay. Worst case I find another hostel or something. Anyway, so I put a review on the hostel world website for my experience with summer hostel last night. It went like this: "Although cheap it is not worth it because it is so far out, and complicated, that you end up spending the extra money working it all out. They don't speak any english and the rooms are a little dirty. Stay in a hostel in town and you'll love this cool city." Pretty good advice I think.

On Bratislava itself, as you might have guessed so far, I am impressed and surprised. I have spent today seeing the sights in town such as St Micheal's tower which has some great views of the city, a Franciscan Monestry with a real monk sitting in the cloisters reading, the Primate's Palace, and the Municipal Museum which has a torture dungeon. Tomorrow my train for Poland leaves in the evening, so I am going to spend the day at the Bratislava Castle.

It has been a while since I've been able to do a real post like this one. It is very difficult to find some alone time to write a proper post when you are travelling with someone. The irony is that now that I am by myself I almost have nothing else to do except write stuff down and see tourist things. I had some grand plans to go further east, but sadly they cannot occur this trip. I will have to be happy with a week in Poland which I think should suffice for the time being. I am looking forward to getting back to Paris and taking advantage of this working visa for France. My money situation is going to be in dire straights if I can't start working asap. I'll keep you posted of whatever happens. Stay cool everyone cos its bloody hot here. And if you are interested there is a new album of me here.